July 11, 2009

Nordic Food in Vietnam

 

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Fred Wissink

A few months ago, I had the pleasure of sitting down with a couple of visiting chefs from Sweden during the Equatorial Hotel’s Nordic Week. At the start of the event, I had swung by for a press dinner and left utterly smitten. Executive chef Niclas Wahlstrom of Stockholm’s Den Gyldene Freden and Magnus Johansson, past winner of the Culinary Olympics and Nobel Prize dinner pastry chef, were good enough to give me some of their time between lunch and dinner services to teach me about the New Nordic Cuisine movement. Tuoi Tre’s vietnewsonline.vn picked up my story on the culinary movement after it ran in AsiaLIFE HCMC. If you haven’t gotten the skinny on New Nordic Food yet, read about it here.

 

Photo by Fred Wissink

July 10, 2009

Ed Lessons: Beware Bloggers

It’s been about a year since I joined the editorial staff of AsiaLIFE HCMC, my first post at a real-life, in-your-hands magazine. With the job crunch caused by the recession back home, I think it’s fair to say that if I hadn’t moved to Saigon, my year spent educating myself and trying to break into publishing would have turned into three and a half. It’s afforded me a lot of opportunities. Back in May, it even fulfilled a lifelong wish: to be positioned at the nexus of controversy and torrid rumor.

The experience turned out to be less than what I’d expected.

Shortly after our Green issue came out, a local blogger and “brand provocateur” named David Everitt-Carlson posted an entry to his blog – The Wild, Wild East Dailies — alleging that AsiaLIFE ripped off New York magazine’s December 2008 cover. To support his claim, he made mention of AsiaLIFE’s “new, New York staff.” Surely there was a connection. One had to lead to the other. What’s more, he had pictures.

Here’s the first problem: we had pictures too. No bones about it. The 2008 New York magazine cover was indeed our reference shot.

3228_195737930234_774620234_6832345_6966758_nThe concept, roughly, went like this: Expats are notorious for their love-hate relationship with Saigon, and one of the things we most often whinge about is the state of the environment. New York magazine is well known for its annual “Reasons to Love New York” issues (the theme has also been used by other city pubs). The cover to the 2008 installment became immediately iconic: a translucent red heart reminiscent of the “I Love New York” campaign held in front of a city street. The idea then developed. Everything we were learning about individuals and organizations fighting for Vietnam’s beleaguered environment represented a new reason to love Vietnam. Our photo editor went to pains to set up the shot so that people would immediately recognize it as a reference to the  New York magazine cover, albeit with one difference: a green heart.

So what went wrong? For one, we changed the cover headline. The working title was We Love Vietnam, but I felt it didn’t sit right on the tongue. We Love Vietnam, Too? A New Reason to Love Vietnam? It all linked back to New York magazine’s concept and strengthened the reference, but it didn’t sound too slick. I suggested a placeholder, The Times They Are a-Changin’. Blame my Bob Dylan obsession. My creative director wasn’t sold (and quite frankly neither was I). As we struggled to finish things up with two of our six-person staff out of town, the issue went to print with the placeholder, an admittedly weak headline that contributes to opening us up to Carlson’s criticism: that we stole New York magazine’s cover.

Here’s the second problem with Carlson’s post: he never contacted us to for comment. Instead, he just assumed that, despite the fact that AsiaLIFE’s designers have been praised for its covers since relaunch in April 2008, we simply got lazy and decided to poach from New York magazine. Apparently he was pretty confident in his hypothesis. He had the “new New York staff” thing, right?

Enter the third problem: we hardly qualify as some recruited bunch of publishing veterans. Since its relaunch, AsiaLIFE has been positioned as a place for ambitious young creatives to cut their teeth. While our staff writer has extensive experience as a freelancer and television writer in New York, this is his first post as a staff writer of a glossy city magazine. Our deputy editor comes from an HR and marketing background; this is her first full-time editorial post. I lived in New York City for 2 1/2 years after college and mostly worked as a contributor/editor for an online travel guide and as a freelance proofreader. Our origin is all coincidence; we were the right people available at the right time in a city not exactly brimming with journalists and editors. Not exactly a bunch of hired guns (but I am proud of what we’ve accomplished with AsiaLIFE).

And the fourth problem: some of the people he painted as guilty of dishonesty never even saw the cover before it went to print. Our deputy editor Ginny was on vacation throughout production. Tom didn’t see it either — he’s frequently mobile and out of office, and rarely sees design mock ups. Our art director was also on 3 weeks leave in New Zealand, as well. 

In fact, I emailed David, not to debate the merit of the cover (he has a right to his opinion), but to let him know there were some holes in his logic and that some of his information was very much inaccurate. His response was a rather lengthy exposition on his history in the industry and some advise about not passing the buck. I wrote back thanking David for his thoughtful response, but noted that he hadn’t actually addressed the fact that he was knowingly leaving inaccurate information on his blog. So I elaborated on the mistakes he’d made. His next response was a bit pithier, and I think it’s fair to say, showed a bit of chagrin (perhaps what did it was telling him that if he was going to criticize a magazine for being lazy on design, he should hold himself accountable for what he publishes without so much as a fact check).

Is it unethical to disclose a summary of our personal conversation? I’m not sure, but David did put an addendum to the now-notorious post in which he quoted me out of context from that email exchange, stating that I had “been all over [his] email” (the sum total of my emails to him was 3 … 1 original and 2 responses). Which was curious, because he wrote this in his first response:

You’re welcome to leave your objection in the comments section of the blog and I will print it, in tact – what I won’t do is post it myself because it is a private note to me and I do keep confidentiality on these things.” 

Still, there was a lesson in there. Design and editorial now work much more closely, and we have better checks to make sure none of our work, if it does refer to another source, can be interpreted as plagiarism. While it was never our intention to rip off New York magazine, I recognize that we made production mistakes that led to a situation in which it was easy to assume that we had done just that. But “assume” is the key word there. In my opinion, David should have afforded my staff the same professional courtesy they afford others: to back up what they publish with real facts, having done proper journalism. Blogger, journalist, brand provocateur — we’re all responsible for the allegations we send out into the world.

In the end, I think the lesson is paying off. David did email me the other day and tell me the last two issues have looked great.

July 10, 2009

Saigon in Miniature

A guy named Joe Nafis reached out to me to see if AsiaLIFE HCMC was interested in running something on his recent film project. We get lots of requests for air time, but this one really stood out. 

Employing tilt shift photography (and a lot of patience), Mr. Nafis managed to cobble together a Mr. Rogers-like rendition of Saigon in all its chaos: Miniature City HCMC. The result is pretty amazing.

July 10, 2009

Update Saigon: 11,500 Hours … and Counting

9000 Hours in Saigon. You may not think it’s much, but as someone who’s chronically unable to title his work, I was pretty proud when I hit on the blog title. Now, sixteen months–approximately 11,500 hours–after moving to Saigon, I’m still here, and looking back, I can only surmise that I somehow tapped into some bad juju when I came up with that title. Because this year really has shaped up to be 9000 hours in Saigon. 9000 hours as a prisoner in thanh pho ho chi minh.

The reason I’ve been relatively immobile is the same reason I haven’t blogged in 7 months: work. After a brief tenure as an English teacher, I joined the editorial department of AsiaLIFE HCMC magazine in August 2008. In October, I became the managing editor. November saw the departure of one of our editors. From there, it’s a barrel of monkeys.

Enter December, January and February. The Christmas and Tet holidays. A time when your chances of stumbling upon a snowball fight in Saigon are better than nailing down anything breathing for an interview. An editor’s nightmare. Enter redesign in March. Enter my first cover story in April. Enter a new, considerably smaller budget in June. Enter the Economy issue of July, the production period that nearly broke me.

Thankfully, my will proved sturdier than Vietnam’s export markets.

So now that I’m committed to at least another 6 months in Vietnam and have gotten back on the blog, what’s next? Change the name? Nope. It’s the planned 9000 Hours in Saigon that got me here in the first place (and bad juju aside, I still dig the name). More likely: dispatches from Saigon, un-chronicled travels, future travels (which now seem more manageable).

I should probably get myself a digital camera.

December 30, 2008

Hue: The Bizarro Saigon

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You know those Vietnam War movies, the ones where it rains straight for months? They’re invariably set in Central Vietnam. Hue. Outside Danang. Pinkville. May Lai. The DMZ. Chu Lai.

I was beginning to think that straight rain stuff was a bunch of guff. Forest Gump, my ass. Living in Saigon, I’d grown accustomed to the Southern rainy season, during which the rain falls for an hour or two a day. Nothing to write home about. But a few hours in Hue (and a bit of history on the region’s Vietnam War-era history) and it suddenly made sense. In Saigon, you can predict rainfall for maybe a couple hours between 2 and 5pm. In Hue, you can only hope that the rain will cease for at least two hours of the day.

I got lucky on my first day in Central Vietnam. It only rained 3/4 of the day. This was a problem, as the plan for the next four days was to motorbike to Danang via the Hai Van Pass and then head into the port town of Hoi An, where Chinese, Japanese and Vietnamese architectural influences converged centuries ago to create a hodgepodge mercantile community. But today I was still figuring out the rain, figuring out when would be the best time to skip out of town.

I’d taken a Jetstar Pacific flight up to Hue early Friday morning, which was in itself a valuable Vietnamese travel experience. I learned two things. First, even if you’ve purchased the bottom-rate Jetsaver Lite ticket, the clerk at the check-in desk will likely not check to make sure your carry-on bag only weight 7kg (15 pounds) if said bag is of reasonable proportions. Second, while planes running on European low-cost carrier routes are notorious for being less than tidy on their last flight of the day, you  should not be surprised to find sticky, soda-stained tray tables on the first flight of the day on Jetstar vessels. 

Stepping down onto the tarmac in Hue’s airport, I also learned that it is remarkably cold in Central Vietnam in December, far colder than I’d anticipated. After heading into town on the airport shuttle (a great deal at 40,000 VND), finding myself a hotel and Chinese knock-off motorbike rental and downing a cup of bun bo hue, I headed to the shopping plaza on Hung Vuong Street on the North bank of the Perfume River and picked up a corduroy Nino Max jacket for 320,000 VND.

I headed over to the royal citadel, which is in good shape thanks to restoration initiatives. The whole thing was bombed to near oblivion by Vietnamese rocket fire and American air sorties during the war. Typical of the Vietnam War, little was gained or lost in military terms when the fighting in Hue tapered off. The world, however, lost an important monument to civilization. Today though, there’s plenty to see, and for those more interested in ruins than re-creations, there’s a good chunk of the Citadel left in it’s natural, time-worn state.

000033I headed up next to Thien Mu Pagoda, the first built in the city. It’s an airy, open complex of temples, living quarters and open space situated at the bend of the Perfume and overlooking the villages that dot the surrounding valley. There were few monks mulling about, except for a few young trainees taking lessons in open-front classrooms, which are affixed to the same building that houses the blue Austin that drove Thich Quang Duc to Saigon in 1966. It was there that the monk immolated himself to protest the American-backed Diem regime. His is the image on Rage Against the Machine’s self-titled debut album and virtually every self-immolation photograph used in popular culture.

There are also bunnies at Thien Mu Pagoda. Adorable bunnies roaming free.

I followed the road further west to a little village past Thien Mu, past young children riding three abreast on bicycles and an old man herding water buffalo. I stopped to snap a few pictures off of men fishing on the river. A curious woman of about 35 stopped and simply watched me take pictures. I got a giggle out of her by telling her hen gap lai (see you again) before driving off. 

The rain started coming down again by the time I reached Lac Thanh restaurant for some banh khoi, pork with bean sprouts and shrimp in a fried pancake served with greens and peanut sauce. It’s amazing to me that with Hue’s culinary legacy, I actually had to search for this kind of thing. Later in the evening, I gave up my search for com hen (rice with baby oyster)–turns out its a breakfast food in Hue–and settled for a (surprisingly good) chicken rice near my hotel. 

Looking forward to a day of motorbiking to Danang, I headed back to my room, read a few chapters from Do Androids Dream of Electric Sheep? and hit the sack. My assessment of the weather: there would no better or worse time of the day to leave tomorrow, and I might as well just head out early, no matter how hard it was pissing down.

Your lesson: don’t go to Hue until February. You are only inviting cold, damp misery upon yourself.

December 24, 2008

Christmas Beer in Saigon

If you’re in town over the holidays, head over to Lion Brewery to get something truly rare in Saigon: seasonal beer.

Brewmaster Tung has concocted some fantastic suds for the season, a sweet amber to wash down all that sausage and kraut you’re bound to chow down (it’s hard not to get into the German spirit underneath the soaring ceiling of the beer hall). Tung’s Christmas beer is not too heavy–locals tend not to go in for anything too strong–but it’s tasty, frothy and refreshing.

Lion Brewery is tucked into an entryway to across from the Opera House to the left of the Caravelle Hotel at 11C Lam Son Square.

December 24, 2008

Update Saigon: All Work and No Play…

So the trip to Cambodia seemed like the perfect opportunity to start blogging again. It was, after all, the first trip I’d taken since going to Mui Ne way back in March. However, once I got back, we ran into some staffing shortages at AsiaLIFE and I became snowed under for the next two months. With everyone gone for the holidays and no one to interview for February’s issue until after the New Year, I’ve decided to pack my bag and head north into Central Vietnam for some motorbiking.

The idea largely came from my buddy Tayne Ephraims, who chronicled his 9-day, hastily planned motorbike journey with two friends from the Central Highlands back down to Saigon in what is in my mind the best blog title of the year, The Half-Way Down. I’m going to do an abbreviated version of the trip on my own: Hue to Danang and Hoi An via the Hai Van Pass, possibly somewhere else if I have the time over the four days. I’m thinking of calling it the One-Eighth Way Down.

What else? I’ve been doing hours and hours of research into the Vietnamese automotive market for January’s Auto issue. Despite knowing little to nothing about the inner working of engines (I still claim it’s magic), I found myself strangely intrigued by the auto industry in Vietnam and Southeast Asia, in general. I should be handling some more articles within the realm of automotives now that I’ve got a springboard into the subject.

I’ll be looking at importing some articles from AsiaLIFE, if only to prove that I haven’t been whiling away my time with prostitutes and booze.

December 24, 2008

Jetstar: Stewardess Strike?

Forgive the politically incorrect title, but flight attendant strike just doesn’t have the same zing.

I had a momentary bout of panic when, just a day after booking my flight to Hue on Jetstar, I pulled up Thanh Nien and saw the lead story: Budget airline staff threaten to strike.

After shooting over to the Jetstar office, a helpful Vietnamese man who spoke impeccable English helped me work out that it was only the flight attendants who were threatening to strike (Thanh Nien referred to them in the obtuse term “workers”). Among their grievances are overtime payment, increased benefits and travel insurance. One flight attendant cited the fact that Jetstar only gives her and her colleagues an annual 500,000 VND (about $30) allowance for cosmetics.

Anyone who has flown Asian airlines enough understands the severity of this particular grievance.

So it looks like planes will still be leaving the tarmac, but Jetstar might still be in deeper trouble. The same article reports that the company is hemorrhaging money–roughly  1.3 billion VND (about $77,000) per day. The losses are largely due to Jetstar’s “‘ineffective’ and expensive promotional programs that included offering super-discount fares,” says Thanh Nien’s source.

Consumers would be wise to check Vietnamese dailies Thanh Nien and Vietnam News before booking.

October 31, 2008

Jetstar Crosses New Borders

Jetstar Pacific Airlines began flying once daily from HCM City to Bangkok’s Suvarnabhumi International Airport today and will launch its HCM City-Siem Reap route on Monday, November 3. The new routes expand Jetstar’s existing international route map, which includes connections between HCM City and Australia, Singapore and New Zealand.

Bottom rate Jetsaver Light fares begin at US $12 to Bangkok and $40 to Siem Reap. The fares allow for carry-on baggage only, though passengers can tack on a 20-kilogram bag by upgrading to a JetSaver fare for an additional US $20.

October 31, 2008

Off to Cambodia

I’ve almost forgotten what this blog looks like. This past month I got bumped up to managing editor over at AsiaLIFE, leaving me little time to do anything but figure out what the hell a managing editor does.

In this and only this respect, I sympathize with Sarah Palin.

But after a month of sleepless nights and panicked backtracking, I’ve finally orchestrated my escape from Saigon and will be heading to Siem Reap for four days. I’ve got my bags packed and visa renewed (after letting it lapse for a month … woops), and I’ll be boarding my very first Airbus A380 in a few hours.

Once there, I’ll be touring Angkor Wat, drifting through some floating villages on Lake Tonle Sap, and trying to prove that Cambodian food is in fact edible.