August 19, 2009

The New Vietnam

In July, AsiaLIFE ran its economy issue. You can now find two of the feature stories that explore how the booming economy is producing big changes in the country on Vietnewsonline.vn.

In The Domestic Dilemma, I tried to find out whether local Vietnamese businesses could compete with the increasing number of foreign firms setting up shop to take advantage of the booming domestic market for consumer goods. Just 10 years ago, marketing was nonexistent in the country. Now local companies are scrambling to build brands as companies like Nestle and Pepsi munch away at market share.

For his part, AsiaLIFE staff writer Thomas Maresca explored how the increase in disposable income is changing Vietnam, its people and its cultural landscape in subtle ways not immediately noticeable to the average foreigner. Check out Money Changes Everything for the full story.

August 3, 2009

Rock Climbing Vietnam and Southeast Asia

Last month, AsiaLIFE junior writer Stephen Wright covered the rise of rock climbing in Ho Chi Minh City. The peg was the opening of X Rock’s second climbing location in District 3, but he went above and beyond the call of duty, ferreting out some great rock climbing in Southeast Asia (with the help of resident climbing guru Richard Carrington). The article made it’s way to Tuoi Tre’s English-language portal Vietnewsonline.vn. If you’re looking to get your hands dirty in Vietnam and Southeast Asia, check out Rock On.

Also on the Vietnam rock climbing front, Amy Morison, editor of Live Hoi An magazine, put the word out about the new climbing trips to the Marble Mountains offered by Phat Tire Ventures in this month’s AsiaLIFE Getaways feature, “Our Girl in Hoi An.”

Search “AsiaLIFE” at Vietnewsonline.vn for all the syndicated content from Saigon’s monthly pub.

July 31, 2009

Jetstar [Weekend] Fare Frenzy

Jetstar seems to be extending this week’s Friday Fare Frenzy through the weekend. The booking window for sale fares usually lasts from 2pm to 5pm every Friday, but yesterday’s JetMail newsletter contained a link to sale fares on six routes good for travel during two periods: September 9 to October 29 and October 30 to November 12 (why not September 9 to November 12? Beats me). The sale lasts until 11:59 pm on Sunday. When this Friday’s Fare Frenzy went live at 2pm, the same sale fares were on offer.

No telling whether Jetstar will keep up the generosity, but it might be worth signing up for JetMail to find out.

The deals are (one-way Jetsaver Light):

Ha Noi – Da Nang: 200,000 VND

Ho Chi Minh City – Da Nang: 200,000 VND

Ho Chi Minh City - Ha Noi: 450,000 VND

Ho Chi Minh City - Hai Phong: 450,000 VND

Ho Chi Minh City - Hue: 300,000 VND

Ho Chi Minh City – Vinh: 400,000 VND

July 19, 2009

Expat Alert: Girl Talk Hits Hanoi

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The year is shaping up to be a small step forward for live music in Vietnam. Already we’ve seen acts like Brooklyn-based Ratat, dancehall singer Lexie Lee and Beijing indie band Rebuilding the Rights of Statues swing through Saigon. Now, DJ Greg Gillis, aka Girl Talk will be bringing his signature blend of hundreds-of-samples-strong mixes and frenetic audience interaction to Hanoi on August 15 (venue to be determined) thanks to the folks at CAMA.

Sadly, Girl Talk won’t be hitting HCMC. The inside word is that he’d rather spend some time on the beach after his Hanoi date. So get booking your Jetstar flight.

July 19, 2009

Motorbiking the Hai Van Pass

 

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At this point, I don’t exactly have a plan. I am winging it.

Having passed over a horde of substandard Honda Dreams, Citis and Wave Alphas — motorbikes that would almost certainly leave me stranded on the Hai Van Pass if they didn’t break down sooner — there is now parked in front of me a gleaming new Yamaha Sirius. But the owner wants my passport.

I can’t explain to him that this is impossible, that I will need my passport to check into a hotel in Danang in a few hours time. That I plan to drive his bike 4 hours southeast of Hue, over the Hai Van Pass, into Danang , then to Hoi An and back would no doubt be a deal breaker.

 So instead I tell him I cannot give him my passport. It is at my hotel. He asks for the hotel’s number. I tell him I need to switch hotels; mine is very bad. I tell him he can have my New York State driver’s license. He looks on the verge of giving me a yes. I tell him I’ll pay him up front for the three days’ rental.

Bingo.

I stop at my hotel, pick up my backpack, get back on the Sirius and just like that I’ve salvaged my trip from the brink of disaster. Just like that, I am headed out of town, bound for the Hai Van Pass.

The road out of Hue is almost exceedingly well marked, if a bit labyrinthine. Every few hundred metres, there’s another sign. This way. That way. Left. Right. Up. Down. Back the other way. It’s a cartoonish route, but it proves dependable and soon I’m on the open road heading west, driving past coastal paddies.

But then the rain starts up. The proceeding hours are a blur. I stop to reposition my rain jacket; multiple configurations lead to the same conclusion: it’s going to be a we ride. About an hour into the drive, my hands are frozen solid. I stop at two large markets to find gloves. No luck. All I get are inquisitive stares and giggles.

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http://www.flickr.com/photos/snips/

From there, things get hazy. I remember a backup where a bridge is being repaired. But other than that, I am just trying my best to make good time, trying to overtake the truck traffic. After a while, 70km per hour feels just fine on the slick roads. I start to accept the discomfort, the aching limbs and numb fingers. The sign to denote you’re leaving a hamlet — the crossed-out skyline — is my only comfort.

 

And then it happens. I’m just outside of the Hai Van Pass. The rain has reduced to a drizzle. The first ascent alone, steep and banking towards the ocean, assures me that the Hai Van Pass will dwarf the two smaller passes I’ve already driven. The experience, I begin to realize, will make all that’s come before worth it.

Thanks to a recently completed tunnel for truck traffic, the Hai Van Pass is nothing short of a motorcyclist’s dream come true. Lanes that likely made for tense trips by bus or truck provide latitude for motorbikes to bank and weave with relative safety. Around every corner, you imagine the summit must be near, but the road continues to climb, the South China Sea below growing more distant, the jungle foliage on the mountainside more verdant.

And then I reach the top. With the mist and cloud cover, the view is non-existant. No worries. I’m eager to get back on the bike. The drive down the mountain proves just as much fun — you’ve got to keep your hand on the break just to keep yourself in check. And not long into the descent, the rain abates altogether. The sun comes out. I take of the stifling raincoat, and continue down the mountain, the sun and wind drying my sodden clothes.

Next stop Danang.

July 16, 2009

From Buffalo with Love

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A few months ago I was rather surprised to receive this link from my sister, Kate DiChristopher, an HR specialist with Marina Maher Communications in New York City. Unbeknownst to me, Kate had become a blogger.

Okay, so she’s not terribly prolific just yet, but her single blog post, an endearing love letter to our hometown of Buffalo, is imbued with a disturbingly engaging travel aesthetic. Why disturbing? Because I’m supposed to be the writer in the family, the shiftless and wanderlust-afflicted Type B child.

Luckily, Kate still proves herself far more adroit at Type A things like healthy cooking and retirement planning. Though I am keeping my eye on her. If she starts blogging about discount airlines, I know I’m in trouble. Anyhow, give her story a read, because it really is a gem.

July 12, 2009

Jetstar’s Friday Fare Frenzy

With only one true budget air carrier operating in Vietnam — Jetstar Pacific — there’s not often much to report on. But in June Jetstar initiated its Friday Fare Frenzy promotion, offering customers discounted fares on select flights booked between 2 and 5pm every Friday. 

So three weeks into the promotion, what’s the verdict?

A search on Friday, July 10 turned up cheap flights early morning and late night on the HCMC – Danang and Hanoi – Danang routes — 180,000 VND ($10 USD) for one-way Jetsaver Light fares and 230,000 VND ($13) for Jetsaver fares. Danang’s not the most exciting destination, but it does make for a cheap means of skipping over to Hoi An and, for motorbike travelers, puts you just a few miles from the stunning Hai Van Pass. The problem? The flights depart more than 3 months down the line — a booking made on July 10 was good for travel between October 26 and November 12.

The following weekend, however, Jetstar offered a more user-friendly schedule: one-way Jetsaver Light fares for 350,000 VND ($20) between HCMC and Hanoi (October 5 to November 12), and the same price for a HCMC-Vinh route (September 22 to November 12). It’s a bit of a lottery, but it’s a step in the right direction.

July 11, 2009

Nordic Food in Vietnam

 

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Fred Wissink

A few months ago, I had the pleasure of sitting down with a couple of visiting chefs from Sweden during the Equatorial Hotel’s Nordic Week. At the start of the event, I had swung by for a press dinner and left utterly smitten. Executive chef Niclas Wahlstrom of Stockholm’s Den Gyldene Freden and Magnus Johansson, past winner of the Culinary Olympics and Nobel Prize dinner pastry chef, were good enough to give me some of their time between lunch and dinner services to teach me about the New Nordic Cuisine movement. Tuoi Tre’s vietnewsonline.vn picked up my story on the culinary movement after it ran in AsiaLIFE HCMC. If you haven’t gotten the skinny on New Nordic Food yet, read about it here.

 

Photo by Fred Wissink

July 10, 2009

Ed Lessons: Beware Bloggers

It’s been about a year since I joined the editorial staff of AsiaLIFE HCMC, my first post at a real-life, in-your-hands magazine. With the job crunch caused by the recession back home, I think it’s fair to say that if I hadn’t moved to Saigon, my year spent educating myself and trying to break into publishing would have turned into three and a half. It’s afforded me a lot of opportunities. Back in May, it even fulfilled a lifelong wish: to be positioned at the nexus of controversy and torrid rumor.

The experience turned out to be less than what I’d expected.

Shortly after our Green issue came out, a local blogger and “brand provocateur” named David Everitt-Carlson posted an entry to his blog – The Wild, Wild East Dailies — alleging that AsiaLIFE ripped off New York magazine’s December 2008 cover. To support his claim, he made mention of AsiaLIFE’s “new, New York staff.” Surely there was a connection. One had to lead to the other. What’s more, he had pictures.

Here’s the first problem: we had pictures too. No bones about it. The 2008 New York magazine cover was indeed our reference shot.

3228_195737930234_774620234_6832345_6966758_nThe concept, roughly, went like this: Expats are notorious for their love-hate relationship with Saigon, and one of the things we most often whinge about is the state of the environment. New York magazine is well known for its annual “Reasons to Love New York” issues (the theme has also been used by other city pubs). The cover to the 2008 installment became immediately iconic: a translucent red heart reminiscent of the “I Love New York” campaign held in front of a city street. The idea then developed. Everything we were learning about individuals and organizations fighting for Vietnam’s beleaguered environment represented a new reason to love Vietnam. Our photo editor went to pains to set up the shot so that people would immediately recognize it as a reference to the  New York magazine cover, albeit with one difference: a green heart.

So what went wrong? For one, we changed the cover headline. The working title was We Love Vietnam, but I felt it didn’t sit right on the tongue. We Love Vietnam, Too? A New Reason to Love Vietnam? It all linked back to New York magazine’s concept and strengthened the reference, but it didn’t sound too slick. I suggested a placeholder, The Times They Are a-Changin’. Blame my Bob Dylan obsession. My creative director wasn’t sold (and quite frankly neither was I). As we struggled to finish things up with two of our six-person staff out of town, the issue went to print with the placeholder, an admittedly weak headline that contributes to opening us up to Carlson’s criticism: that we stole New York magazine’s cover.

Here’s the second problem with Carlson’s post: he never contacted us to for comment. Instead, he just assumed that, despite the fact that AsiaLIFE’s designers have been praised for its covers since relaunch in April 2008, we simply got lazy and decided to poach from New York magazine. Apparently he was pretty confident in his hypothesis. He had the “new New York staff” thing, right?

Enter the third problem: we hardly qualify as some recruited bunch of publishing veterans. Since its relaunch, AsiaLIFE has been positioned as a place for ambitious young creatives to cut their teeth. While our staff writer has extensive experience as a freelancer and television writer in New York, this is his first post as a staff writer of a glossy city magazine. Our deputy editor comes from an HR and marketing background; this is her first full-time editorial post. I lived in New York City for 2 1/2 years after college and mostly worked as a contributor/editor for an online travel guide and as a freelance proofreader. Our origin is all coincidence; we were the right people available at the right time in a city not exactly brimming with journalists and editors. Not exactly a bunch of hired guns (but I am proud of what we’ve accomplished with AsiaLIFE).

And the fourth problem: some of the people he painted as guilty of dishonesty never even saw the cover before it went to print. Our deputy editor Ginny was on vacation throughout production. Tom didn’t see it either — he’s frequently mobile and out of office, and rarely sees design mock ups. Our art director was also on 3 weeks leave in New Zealand, as well. 

In fact, I emailed David, not to debate the merit of the cover (he has a right to his opinion), but to let him know there were some holes in his logic and that some of his information was very much inaccurate. His response was a rather lengthy exposition on his history in the industry and some advise about not passing the buck. I wrote back thanking David for his thoughtful response, but noted that he hadn’t actually addressed the fact that he was knowingly leaving inaccurate information on his blog. So I elaborated on the mistakes he’d made. His next response was a bit pithier, and I think it’s fair to say, showed a bit of chagrin (perhaps what did it was telling him that if he was going to criticize a magazine for being lazy on design, he should hold himself accountable for what he publishes without so much as a fact check).

Is it unethical to disclose a summary of our personal conversation? I’m not sure, but David did put an addendum to the now-notorious post in which he quoted me out of context from that email exchange, stating that I had “been all over [his] email” (the sum total of my emails to him was 3 … 1 original and 2 responses). Which was curious, because he wrote this in his first response:

You’re welcome to leave your objection in the comments section of the blog and I will print it, in tact – what I won’t do is post it myself because it is a private note to me and I do keep confidentiality on these things.” 

Still, there was a lesson in there. Design and editorial now work much more closely, and we have better checks to make sure none of our work, if it does refer to another source, can be interpreted as plagiarism. While it was never our intention to rip off New York magazine, I recognize that we made production mistakes that led to a situation in which it was easy to assume that we had done just that. But “assume” is the key word there. In my opinion, David should have afforded my staff the same professional courtesy they afford others: to back up what they publish with real facts, having done proper journalism. Blogger, journalist, brand provocateur — we’re all responsible for the allegations we send out into the world.

In the end, I think the lesson is paying off. David did email me the other day and tell me the last two issues have looked great.

July 10, 2009

Saigon in Miniature

A guy named Joe Nafis reached out to me to see if AsiaLIFE HCMC was interested in running something on his recent film project. We get lots of requests for air time, but this one really stood out. 

Employing tilt shift photography (and a lot of patience), Mr. Nafis managed to cobble together a Mr. Rogers-like rendition of Saigon in all its chaos: Miniature City HCMC. The result is pretty amazing.